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All the dressmaking techniques you need, explained simply for easy, professional-looking results.
This definitive how-to book features scores of step-by-step sequences showing every kind of technique, from using and adapting paper patterns, to specialist couture-inspired seaming techniques that will take your garment-making skills to a new level.
Dip in and out, or work through the book in order:
A beautifully presented technique-resource that includes tools, techniques and troubleshooting, this is a guide for dressmakers new to the craft and for those who want to take their skills further.
Author Jules Fallon runs a hugely popular and over-subscribed series of dressmaking classes, which means she knows exactly the techniques that everyone gets stuck on. She brings her neat tricks and sage advice to all aspects of the book, and especially to the 'Help!' features: troubleshooting fixes for the real-world mistakes that are part of our dressmaking experience.
Previously published as Complete Guide to Dressmaking (9781782215721).
Meet Jules Fallon 8
CHAPTER 1: KIT 10
Essential equipment 12 Needle know-how 15 Cutting it 18 Machine anatomy 20 Sewing machine feet 22 Choosing your thread 24 Dressmaking haberdashery 26
CHAPTER 2: PREP 28
Understanding fabrics 30 - Woven p. 31, Silks p. 32, Wools and wool mixes p. 33, Knitted p. 34, Bonded p. 34, Special-occasion 35Choosing fabrics 36 Interfacing 38 Fabric preparation 39 Pattern envelope information 40 Understanding pattern symbols 44 Measuring 46 Size charts and measurements 48 Making a fitted toile 50 Laying out the paper pattern 54 - What pattern pieces do you need? 54, How to follow a layplan 55, Working with patterned fabrics 57 Pinning and cutting fabric 60 - Marking fabric 62 Adapting a pattern 64
CHAPTER 3: MAKE 68
Pressing matters 70 Creating shape 72 - Darts 72, Gathering 76, Pleats and tucks 79, Shirring 86 Seams 88 - Finishing seams 94 Pockets 98 - In-seam pocket 98, Patch pocket 100, Welt pocket 102, Jetted pocket 105, Western-style pocket 108, Cargo pocket 110 Openings and closures 114 - Placket opening 114, Continuous-bound opening 116, Centre-back vent 118, Buttons and buttonholes 120, Hooks and eyes 126, Press studs 127 Zips 128 - Centred zip 128, Fly zip 130, Lapped zip 133, Concealed zip 136, Concealed zip with a facing 138, Lapped zip with a facing 140, Exposed zip with a facing 143 Sleeves 146 - Set-in sleeve 148, Two-piece sleeve 150, Raglan sleeve 152, Shirt sleeve 154 Cuffs 156 - Shirt cuff 156, French cuff 158 Collars 159 - Shirt collar 160, Peter Pan collar 166, Convertible collar 168, Shawl collar 172 Yokes 176 - Double yoke 176 Waistbands 178 - Straight waistband 179, Curved waistband 182, Belt loops 184, Elastic casing 185 Decorative features 188 - Bias strips 188, Piping 191, Rouleau cord 194, Inserting lace 197, Frills and flounces 198, Topstitching 200
CHAPTER 4: STRETCH 202
Stretch fabric characteristics 204 - Why knit is different to woven fabric 204, Different types of knit fabric 206, Elastic and stabilisers 209 Working with stretch fabric 212 - You don’t need an overlocker 212, Edge finishes for necklines and armholes 213, Hemming and using a twin needle 217
CHAPTER 5: FINISH 220
Bound edges 222 - Positioning the bias strip 222, Attaching the bias strip 223, Finishing the bias strip 224 Facings 226 - Neck facing 226, Waist facing 228, All-in-one facing 230 Understitching and edge stitching 232 - Understitching 232, Edge stitching 233 Hems 234 - Hand sewing 235, Machine sewing 238 Linings 242 - Skirt lining 243, Bodice or dress lining 246
Resources 248 Glossary 250 Index 252 Credits 256
Jules Fallon is an established indie pattern designer and owner of the brand Sew Me Something, she is also an experienced author and teacher. Jules is a regular on the sewing, quilting and craft show circuit in the UK and hosts regular workshops and retreats on dressmaking and sewing. Visit her website: sewmesomething.co.uk
By Jules Fallon
£19.99
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